Easter is the time to experience Seville’s religious passion, when the Basilica of La Macarena – the Weeping Virgin – is swamped by devotees and hundreds of decorated floats.

On May, June and September afternoons, crowds flock to one of Spain’s finest finest bullfighting arenas, the Plaza de Toros, for the corridas.

And by midnight on weekends all year round, clicking heels, clapping hands and castanets fill the bars along the riverfront in Triana, the birthplace of flamenco.

Seville’s crowning glory is her cathedral, crowned by the iconic Giralda Belltower (once a noisy minaret calling Muslims to prayer) and entered via sumptuous horseshoe arches – a reminder of the Mosque that once stood there.

Opposite the Giralda is the Alcazar Palace, one of the finest examples of Islamic-influenced Mudejar architecture anywhere in Spain.

During the day, the tight, flower-filled alleys of Santa Cruz, the ancient Jewish District, offer a respite from the heat, with some of Seville’s prettiest houses and arts and craft stores.

The passion for bullfighting, the flamenco dancers, the zest for life. The stunning light, the scent of orange-trees and jacaranda, the dark Moorish looks of a Carmen or Don Juan in the street.

If Spain were a city she’d be Seville.